“They called us the seal fuckers,” he said, glancing back at his boys for support. “They called us the stinking whale. They asked us if we had braised whale’s penis on the menu.” He grinned. “Look who’s laughing now.” René Redzepi.
In my last post I spoke about Noma having family, not staff – Some of this family have branched out to open their own restaurants. Bror & Relæ are perfect examples of what happens when Seal Fuckers leave home and go their own way. Back in the summer I didn’t have enough time to eat at both Bror & Relæ on separate evenings, so there was only one thing to do: eat at both in one evening.
Bror is situated near the center of Copenhagen. My table was reserved for 17:30. Bror is owned and operated by two ex Seal Fuckers, Samuel Nutter & Victor Wågman. Samuel is from England & Victor is from Sweden.
They keep things simple with deep fried Bulls Balls & Catfish Cheeks – Great use of ingredients we don’t normally think to eat. On the other hand, they have delicate plates of food such as Pike Perch with Grilled Cucumbers & Pine. Their Boned Chicken Wings are one of their signature dishes & Seal the Deal that they are not just an after thought from Mr Redzepi – I imagine staff meals at Noma were involved here. All the food that I ate was excellent, the wine list is mostly Natural & the service is good. Bror in Danish means Brother.
Relæ is situated in the Copenhagen district of the once-shady Nørrebro – Seal Fuckers Christian F. Puglisi & Kim Rossen (Kim was a chef but is now FOH) opened Relæ in August 2010. As I was eating alone I had reserved a place at the “Bar” for 21:00 which overlooks the open kitchen where the old gas Stove from Noma has found a new home. Upon entering Relæ I felt immediately welcome and sensed a feeling of customers & staff alike enjoying themselves in an unpretentious atmosphere.
I ordered the very reasonably priced 7 course menu for 675 kr. & Wine Menu for 385 kr. (together about €150, £120 & CHF180). The Deep Fried Potato Bread is great – I loved the Raw Beef, Anchovies & Wild Garlic – Pork from Hindsholm with Nettles & Cucumber was excellent (look at the colour of the perfectly cooked Pink Pork in the photo) & Steamed Danish Enoki & Sand Leek. The wine I had was all fantastically natural.
Christian F. Puglisi is known for his sharp and unshakeable position on questions regarding his field and concerns of organics and sustainability. Both Relæ and sister restaurant Manfreds & Vin have achieved the Danish organic certification and therefore making Relæ the only Michelin starred restaurant with an organic certification in the world. Relæ is also number 56th in the World’s 100 Best. Relæ in Danish means Relay – An act of passing something along from one person, group, or station to another……..Please keep passing boys.